Gorillas on the Cliff

Good climbers use a combination of strength, endurance and flexibility. Power is developed by the arms through an upward throwing action of the arms, which instigates efficient eccentric muscle lengthening decelerating forces (rather than concentric - muscle shortening). Additionally, they are able to facilitate kinetic energy across the chain of movement from toes through the legs and pelvis into the trunk and torso.

Since the abdominal muscles cross the lower 6 ribs, sufficient trunk core stability should not compromise the mobility (especially rotation) of the thorax.

Excessive development of the low thoracic - upper lumbar erector spinae can create reduced gluteal muscle strength, increased psoas major tightness and reduced core stability of the diaphragm

Postural problems associated with climbing could lead to musculoskeletal injury

• Climbers may develop a gorilla-like appearance due to the unique nature of the sport
• Gorilla-like appearance alters the center of gravity of various limb and trunk segments
• this may lead to shoulder injuries, headaches, neck, arm and back pain

Stomach crunches or 'curls' may cause

• tightness of the rectus abdominus ("6 pack") and external obliques

at the expense of

• weakness of the transverse abdominis muscle
• increased thoracic kyphosis (rounded back)
• reduced diaphragmatic lateral expansion

which contributes to the gorilla posture resulting in

• altered thoracic biomechanics which affects active SLR and active PKB suggesting reduced lumbopelvic rhythm (gluteal : hamstring timing)
• reduced strength in the lumbo-pelvic-hip musculature
• reduced gliding of the myofascial trains extending from the superficial front line of the latissimus dorsi to the superficial back line of the thoracolumbar fascia and the gluteals

Excessive and prolonged reaching

• results in tight serratus anterior and pectoral (chest) muscles
• contributing to excessive strain on the blood vessels, nerves and joints of the shoulder - neck - arm complex
• creates excessive low thoracic erector spinae activity contributing to loss of costal expansion, as well as reduced diaphragmatic rhythm
• has been associated with impingement in the supraspinatus (superior rotator cuff) muscle leading to discomfort in the shoulder with loss of muscle power during shoulder height activities
• Acromioclavicular and sternoclavicular (collar bone joints) joints may become inflammed

Overhead reaching can

• result in excessive strain on the back and shoulder blade muscles
• cause the rhomboids and levator scapulae to become long and weak
• facilitates the latissimus dorsi to become short and strong

Training the shoulder blade muscles for prevention of shoulder-neck injuries

• requires a strong lower trapezius muscle for good posture
• needs a long and strong mid and upper trapezius muscle
• eccentric rhomboids
• coactivation of eccentric lats and concentric serratus anterior

Training

the trapezius muscles requires synergistic (complimentary) action by the

• latissimus dorsi
• erector spinae (back)
• oblique and transverse abdominal muscles (not the "6-pack"!!)

Bridging exercises

with the Swiss Gym ball and elastic tubing allows

• functional activity which stretches the pectoral girdle and "6 pack"
• strengthening of the abdominal, spinal and shoulder blade muscles
• dynamic stability of the pelvis and hips allowing enhanced freedom of movement on the cliff face

seek guidance from your physiotherapist as the ultimate aim is to improve your power-weight ratio without inducing an injury

Good Reading

to other Swiss Ball and Hydrotherapy exercises

Last update : 22 July 2006